During current times marked by technological advances, Maria Grazia Chiuri embraces simpler, more organic impulses. Her Fall/Winter collection for the renowned Roman fur fashion house Fendi is not a new start but rather a return to her roots. Having spent a decade at the brand from 1988 to 1999, she trained under the Fendi sisters and is now the creative force propelling the brand into new terrains. As one of the few women at the helm of a major fashion house, Chiuri chose to debut with a collection of clothing tailored to the body’s desires.

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A departure from the previous two technicolored collections designed by Silvia Venturini Fendi, the show opened to a series of 17 black looks. The coed collection was classically Chiuri, showcasing her signature design codes of black lace, slip dresses, sheer fabrics, and slogans. The collection featured heavy, structured blazers and overcoats paired with soft, flowing dresses, shirts, and trousers, placing a clear emphasis on silhouette.

Furthering her idea of contemporary feminism, Chiuri collaborated with artist SAGG Napoli on slogans such as “Rooted but not stuck” and “Present but not dependent,” which were printed on t-shirts and stoles. Additionally, she accessorized runway looks with jewelry pieces designed by Archivio Mirella Bentivoglio, creating wearable symbols that embody thought, ambiguity, and memory.

A nod to Fendi’s Fun Fur history was accomplished via faux fur coats and vests sprinkled throughout the collection, along with animal print seen across baguette bags, shoes, and outerwear. Notable guests in attendance who admired the intricate detailing and overall aesthetic of the collection included Uma Thurman, Dakota Fanning, Monica Bellucci and Jessica Alba.

Revitalizing classic Fendi elements with her feminist ethos, Maria Grazia Chiuri’s vision for the brand is distinct; clothes are an essential part of our existence, accompanying us through the highs and lows of life. Her motto, “Less I, more us,” signifies that fashion is not just an individual expression but a collective experience, encouraging unity.