May 2019: the sun had begun to defrost the marble and grass that surround the walkways of Rome. This was my last memory of the eternal city, before this Autumn began, when Fiumicino’s Terminal Three greeted this weary traveler warmly. Whizzing by traffic signs and overlooking the huddled clutter of moving cobblestone streets, glass doors opened up to a redefinition of what it means to vacation; a true Roman stay, at the brand new Hotel Urbana, a Tribute Portfolio Hotel.

The Hotel Urbana stands on a side street of Monti—a neighborhood in Rome highly regarded for its local and international artistry, fine-dining experiences, and profoundly significant cultural monuments. This property was once the Costanzi family villa, where Architects sought to add a modern addition and accommodation, simultaneously welcoming travelers and preserving the story of its once illustrious and elegant past. This restoration project is something that Marriott describes as an “adaptive re-use,” a location where a historic building is robust in design and character but in need of repair. Contractors then work to preserve the space while adding modern safety and comfort, cherishing its former prowess. Marriott Tribute Portfolio properties portray a uniqueness unto themselves, adeptly showcasing the stylistic, cultural themes and traditions within the cities they exist. Rome, while being predominantly visited for its ancient picturesque sites, is often overlooked for its modern art revival and outstanding contemporary experiences. With UNESCO landmarks sharing walls with some of the most bespoke and regarded modern galleries and restaurants in Europe, Monti’s deeply proud artist community frames Hotel Urbana gracefully; another feat of Italian luxury and craftsmanship.

Walking into the Hotel Urbana around 1:30 pm local time, red-eyed and full of whimsy, one may find fall-themed decor and the aroma of bergamot and cypress trees wafting around the lobby. Three main colors accentuate the space: pomegranate red (a beloved Mediterranean mainstay to wish travelers good fortune), the sage “orti” (of cultivation, both agriculturally and intellectually), and the Costanzi family’s royal cobalt, cascading across the hotel’s interior and furniture (judiciously). 

Roman geometric patterns direct foot traffic to Rossi Blanto marble desks and wall adornments; a rather unique marble blend helps to unify the preservation and modernization at the core of this stay. Heading upstairs and entering the metropolitan aristocratic lodging quarters continues the unpacking of this seemingly living museum, as vaulted second-floor ceilings wistfully showcase of-era frescos from the original Costanzi Villa. Whether having a Negroni at the rooftop bar for sunset, reserving a private hour in the unbelievably constructed arco-modern bath house, or having an espresso on the outdoor patio for breakfast, the Hotel Urbana is etched into the stone of cultural elegance and tradition earnestly. It sets the scene for an enchanted visit, enriched in atypical sites and sounds. Guests of the Hotel Urbana get to indulge the way locals do; live amongst the splendor so many overlook.

The secrets of Monti—well within walking distance of the hotel—are bountiful. Of course, therein lives the famous Colosseum, as the grand cornerstone of the neighborhood, across from the similarly sought-after Basilica Saint Mary Major on its opposite end, one of the Seven Pilgrim Churches of Rome and the largest Marian Church in the capital. Those who wish to investigate the neighborhood's less notarized standing monoliths of grandeur, however, have plenty to choose from. 

A tour of the Roman Opera is decadent and full of history, as the less than five-minute foot journey from the hotel’s front door will introduce visitors to this post-reunification masterpiece, under Europe’s largest chandelier and a ceiling adorned with frescoes done by the same artist who attributed the now Hotel Urbana with its profound painted past. 

After a divine lunch at Gli Angeletti, a Trattoria serving classic Roman food and pouring limoncello at the merry, the Basilica of San Pietro in Vicoli is on the other side of a small tunneled stairwell. Consecrated in 439, the Church houses the tomb of Pope Julius II, as well as one of Michelangelo’s most revered sculptures, “Moses.” Walking into the ‘Made in Rome’ arts and trinkets store Spazio DeCore at sunset, the local artists chat over sparkling wine about the inherent historical and modern art coexisting within its four quadrants. There’s a general consensus about how form and style is what most set out to seek on their stay; where subject and meaning are an afterthought of appreciation at best. When one wishes to look a bit deeper, it’s ever-consuming just how much workmanship and dedication is present throughout some of the most banal corners and thoroughfare streets, as evidence of passion these multi-disciplinary gentlemen prescribed their work with. This is what Rome does best: It is a constant dedication to the ingenuity of yester, serving as a canvas for modern artists, craftsmen, and farmers to cultivate their own work into; as expectant as chiseling marble to form, kneading egg and semolina to raviolo, or as indelible the brick and mortar are to a luxury stay.

Saying farewell to the Hotel Urbana was difficult. From its exceptionally helpful and gracious hospitality, instantly hot showers, and utterly incredible on-site food and beverage, the Hotel Urbana is rapidly becoming the epicenter for travelers who wish to uncover Rome as it truly is, not as the expiring Instagram story it gets mistaken for so often. Monti is securely fastened to its future whilst constantly acknowledging its past, its energy visceral and immaterial, cascading across the walls of accommodations and ruins alike. Five days here felt utterly too brief, yet so enriching, as Hotel Urbana became a place I knew well amidst the buzzing, confounding streets of the Italian capital. The comfort in leaving was knowing now that it exists; proudly showcasing the best of the eternal city, ready to welcome the next patron and recommend an unforgettable historical landmark or modern gastronomic triumph anew.

Photos courtesy of Marriott Bonvoy Hotel Urbana, a Tribute Portfolio Hotel.