Wiederhoeft | The Symphonic Alchemy of Theatrical Couture

Fashion narratives empowered by transformation

Written by

McKenna Matus

Photographed by

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Styled by

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Photographed by Don Ashby

With a masterful blend of three-dimensional ingenuity and captivating theatrical storytelling, designer Jackson Wiederhoeft crafts and composes intricately sophisticated garments for his eponymous brand, Wiederhoeft. Their pieces have taken the fashion world by storm by using unconventional alternatives to traditional styles, meticulous and informed craftsmanship, and boundary-pushing imagery and textile choices. Wiederhoeft uses detailed narrative practices and intense showmanship during their collection presentations since their days as a student at Parsons School of Design, where their 2016 thesis collection “The Dollies” won “Women’s Designer of the Year.” After Parsons, Wiederhoeft went on to design at Thom Browne for three years with a focus on women’s runway collections. Recent Wiederheoft pieces have appeared on influential talents such as Ice Spice, Jennifer Coolidge, Julia Fox, Conan Gray, Rachel Sennott, and the iconic Lady Gaga.

In high school, Wiederhoeft’s passion for theater and costume design led them to discover their authentic artistic expression in fashion. Through this medium, they are able to construct immersive worlds and unleash their exceptional storytelling abilities. Inspiration for Weiderhoeft's evocative collections arise from a tapestry of influences including mythological sagas such as Orpheus and Eurydice, and the martyrdom of St. Sebastian. Their garments transcended mere costumes, empowering wearers to tap into unexplored facets of their identity.

“I want the clothes to unlock something in people,” Wiederhoeft articulated. “I want people to engage the part of themselves they don't normally get to express.”

Wiederhoeft characterizes their creations as a means to metamorphose individuals into “phoenix versions of themselves.” While certain collections delve into a realm of playfulness and nostalgia, experimenting with vibrant colors and unique forms, others exude a profound sense of historical reverence, showcasing refined corseting and precise bias cuts. Wiederhoeft’s Fall/Winter 2023 New York Fashion Week show “EURYDICE” featured showstopping garments constructed by an array of materials including hand woven embroidery, plastic organza, moiré, chainmail, chandelier crystals, white satin, and denim. The show itself contested gender stereotypes and pushed the boundaries of conventional runway fashion through performance art and acting, evoking similarities to the sensational runway shows of Lee Alexander McQueen.

Fueled by the collaborative spirit of their team and unwavering support from their creative community, Joseph Weiderhoeft has embarked on a journey of sartorial liberation through the Wiederhoeft brand, with their third runway show ascending near on the horizon.

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Wiederhoeft, Couture, Fall/Winter 2023, Jackson Wiederhoeft, Parsons, McKenna Matus