After a five-year tenure, Pieter Mulier, now the former creative-director of Alaïa, bid farewell to the maison with his Summer Fall 2026 collection. Foregoing spectacle, Mulier designed a collection that was entirely free of distractions, including bags and jewelry, placing a focus solely on the clothes. The essence of Maison Alaïa was distinct, palpable, and pure. 

Held in the historic Cartier Foundation building, the restrained collection was an expression of the knowledge Mulier gained during his time at the fashion house. As a slideshow of portraits played of Mulier’s team throughout the show, notable guests such as Raf Simons, Alicia Silverstone, Anna Wintour, and Mattheiu Blazy, took their seats. A variety of signature bodycon dresses, double-breasted coats, column skirts, and pantsuits adorned models as they made their rounds on the runway. Several nods to Azzedine's previous collections were shown in dresses featuring croc-embossed leather panels, cinched waist belts, and hoods.

Tailoring was paramount, emphasizing the female form, reflecting both the work of Azzedine and Mulier. The materials used included loden, jersey, viscose, cotton velvet, latex, and raw-cut wool. The simplicity of the garments contrasted with layers of flowing ruffles, pony hair, and gloves, as well as the bodies on which they were worn.

Pieter Mulier’s final collection for Alaïa focused not on himself but on the vocabulary established by the brand’s founder, Azzedine Alaïa. Centering on the body, each garment in the collection reflects a sense of modesty, allowing the woman herself to shine. With a deliberately relaxed approach, Mulier’s concluding work for the Maison Alaïa captures the essence of the brand, paving the way for its next creative director.