It’s hard to imagine Garrett McNamara slowing down. Most people know the 57-year-old surf legend for flying atop the face of impossibly large waves, defying fear and gravity, on the border between chaos and grace. Introduced to the world in 2011 when he caught a world-record-setting 78-foot monster wave in Nazaré, McNamara has redefined the sport of big wave surfing and transformed the Portuguese fishing village into one of the world’s premier big wave spots—a journey documented in HBO’s 100 Foot Wave, the third season of which released this spring.

Though 100 Foot Wave showcases adrenaline-soaked, breathtaking surfing footage, one of the most compelling parts of the series is its tender demonstration of the personhood behind the real-life thrill seeker. Season Three opens with McNamara in unfamiliar territory: a neurological center in Austin,TX. After years of wipeouts and likely undiagnosed concussions, he began showing symptoms of CTE.“It was definitely challenging,” he admits. “You think, ‘Why can’t I remember this?’ It was concerning.”Determined to surf only “perfect days” (that is, days when the waves are ripe and swollen and beautiful),McNamara didn’t stick to his own rule. A facial fracture served as a wake-up call. “The day I got hurt was not perfect. I was having fun, kept pushing it, and then—boom. ‘Garrett, what are you doing?’”Hence, the series lets us into the McNamara home as the surfer navigates family, athleticism, and stardom. Big wave surfing becomes a family affair, with brother-in-law C.J. Macias and breakout star Nicole McNamara playing pivotal roles in the rise of Nazaré and the now-universal team approach to the sport. The series also introduces the rising generation of big wave surfers like Andrew “Cotty” Cotton, Justine Dupont, Lucas “Chumbo” Chianca, Kai Lenny, and Tony Laureano.

After being deeply involved in the directing and producing end of the first two seasons, McNamara explains that he took a step back to go forward on the third: “This year, it was ‘Don’t direct, don’t produce, just be a character...’ It was the most liberating thing ever. Everything is so natural, so raw, so real,” he says. McNamara admits he was initially hesitant about the idea of a third season of the show. “I’m like, our life’s not that interesting.What are they gonna show now? But all the different footage we captured is so good—I think this is the best season yet," he admits. It’s hard to disagree. Digging deeper into the physical and emotional costs of the sport, the new season of 100 Foot Wave refuses to let the viewer forget the humanity of these people descending waves the size of apartment complexes, making their impossible feats that much more harrowing, beautiful, and heart-wrenching.

While sidelined, McNamara turned to mentoring, especially C.J. Macias, who returned to Nazaré after breaking his arm in Season Two. “To see him go back out and get another big wave was super surprising. I knew he could do it.” Macias eventually shifted focus to jet ski piloting, a vital and highly technical role. “There’s a learning curve,” McNamara explains. “You’ve got 30 or 35 feet of rope between the jet ski and the surfer. You don't calculate for that, and suddenly the jet ski’s on the wave but the surfer’s out back. [Macias] learned really quick.”

On Andrew “Cotty” Cotton’s evolution from plumber and ski pilot to elite big wave surfer, McNamara beams. “I don’t want to call myself Obi-Wan Kenobi, but if there’s anything like that...Now Luke’s taking the torch. He’s surfing how I used to—putting it all on the line. I know what that’s like. But now he’s moved beyond just risking it all to get the ultimate ride. He’s surfing with precision and power and making almost every wave.”

While the waves draw viewers in, 100 Foot Wave—and McNamara himself—finds a stable center in familial love. Nicole McNamara, the surfer’s wife and constant partner, lends a softness to the constant adrenaline. “She’s patient, grounded, the voice of reason—and she’s always right. At least99% of the time,” he laughs. “She’s always present, always coming from a place of love. Me, the kids, the planet—she’s so selfless, doing her best to show up in a good way, as the best version of herself.”

So, how does McNamara know when fear is something to push through, or a signal to step back? “For me, it’s super easy. If I’m having fun, I’ll surf. If I’m not having fun, I’m not gonna surf. That’s my new theory for Season Four. The theory for Season Three was ‘Only perfect waves. If it’s not perfect, do not go out. Don't waste your time out there. Don’t give yourself a chance of getting injured—it’s just not worth it.’ But now, even if it’s shitty, if I’m having fun, I’m going to surf. I was going to focus on going out on only the good days, but...it doesn’t have to be super good. It just has to be fun."

All five episodes of the third season of 100 Foot Wave are now streaming on Max.

Photographed by Zach Larraz

Written by Oliver Heffron

Grooming: Lisa Ribar

Location: Argonaut Hotel