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Where Glamour and Grunge Merge: Inside Kate Wasserbach Moore’s Abel Honor New York

Written by

Jorge Lucena

Photographed by

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Refining rebellion with glamour and edge, Kate Wasserbach Moore, founder and creative director of Abel Honor New York, is disrupting the fashion industry with a revolutionary approach. Integrating grunge with the sophistication of couture, Wasserbach Moore is crafting a new era in the industry: high-fashion streetwear. Inspired by the punk subcultures of London, Tokyo and Manhattan, AHNY embodies cultural relevance by representing non-conformity and individual self-expression. 

Prior to launching AHNY, Wasserbach Moore honed her craft while working for top-tier fashion houses and studying fellow creatives. Armed with a bold vision to challenge the fashion norms, the designer founded AHNY in 2019 and took the fashion industry by storm. With several exciting collections in the pipeline, Wasserbach Moore will no doubt surprise us with one-of-a-kind fashion designs for the now and tomorrow.

Upon the release of her highly anticipated menswear collection New Wave, Wasserbach Moore sits down with Flaunt and dishes all on AHNY.

How do you see the fashion industry evolving in terms of its influence and impact over the years?

There is a growing movement to end fast fashion and embrace a slower, appreciative approach to fashion. Which I am happy to see. But to do this, we need a shift that involves valuing quality over quantity. We need to support ethical practices and celebrating individual style. By rejecting the disposable culture and embracing mindfulness, we can create a more sustainable and inclusive fashion industry!

As far an influence, I feel that there is going to be a switch in the influencer movement. Influencers in the fashion industry can sometimes come across as watered down and unauthentic due to the influence of partnerships and financial motivations, which in turn compromises their genuine style and preference. Sometimes I think it can overshadow their true passion and creativity, leading to content that feels contrived. However, it's important to note that not all fashion influencers fall into this category, I really appreciate the ones that strive to maintain their authenticity!

Can you elaborate on the importance of studying and appreciating the history and cultural context of fashion in your design process?

Oh man, I cannot stress enough how important it is to study the creatives before you, and

alongside you. Studying and appreciating the history and cultural context of fashion is essential in the design process. Not only does it give you and your team inspiration, contextualize trends, increases your creative integrity, but it also helps our team understand its’s audience. It also acts as case studies in a way... I get to see what worked, what didn’t, and what I would change.

How did you find your niche in street style, and what sets Abel Honor New York apart in this genre?

I think I found my niche in street style by being a total stan of subcultures. I love how they represent nonconformity, and alternative fashion narratives. Subcultures have always challenged the fashion norms, and street style is a product of that. AHNY has been studying the different subcultures in the history of fashion for years, from London to Tokyo, to Manhattan in the 70’s.

As a designer, how do you stay ahead of trends and forecast the future to define the times?

It seems to be that we stay ahead of trends by not following trends. This keeps our integrity, and it also doesn’t allow us to get caught up in the timing and seasons of trends. We consider our product so unique that it loans itself to a separate category of theme. If you chase or spend too much time on manifesting a trend, the product tends to feel unauthentic.

What inspired you to venture into footwear, and how did the concept of Swan Lake influence your footwear collection?

Well, I wanted to collaborate with craftsman’s that are highly skilled in their work, all the while continuing the expand our product genre at AHNY. We put quality at the forefront, always. So, when I knew we wanted to get into footwear, Italy was an easy call. Italian artisans are considered the best in the world for footwear due to their rich heritage and tradition of craftsmanship.

As far as the inspiration for Swan Lake, we always try to incorporate high and low (contrast) in our concepts. I remember watching the movie Black Swan, and immediately wanting to create a collection from the contrasting themes, such as the pursuit of perfection and the destructive measures taken to achieve ‘perfection’. The movie also explores the dichotomy of good and evil which was a concept we used in season 1.

Could you share the most significant experience or role in your career that has shaped the aesthetic and feel of Abel Honor NY?

KWM: When I first graduated Parsons, I started my own creative company – before designing for Kors. During that time, I learned how to hustle with not a lot of industry or business knowledge. And even though I was literally a ‘starving artist’, I truly was allowed to be as creatively free as I wanted to be. I was discovered on Twitter actually. I got a lot of clients from my public portfolio on Twitter. Large corporations like Lionsgate, Warnerbros, and FX network discovered me through that platform and commissioned me to create for them with my personal vision at the front line. I eventually learned that I still wasn’t ready to commit to the entrepreneur life, and still needed to learn, so I was beyond honored when offered to design for MK. But that short time, at such a young and vulnerable age, was a true challenge and reward in my career.

What drives your passion for couture designing and executing such beautiful garments, like the one you wore at your wedding?

Other than studying the greats- Chanel, Givenchy, Gaultier etc. I think working at Dior really enhanced my love for the craft. The exceptional craftsmanship, unparalleled quality, and the fact that this act was the closest to fine art – in fashion – as possible made me really become infatuated with it. Watching Geri Gerard’s team work on my gown was such a sight, and I was super honored to be in the presence of such greatness.

Which cultural influences, such as music, art, film, or social media, inspire you the most as a designer?

Film, by far. Film incorporates all aspects of creative mediums – fashion design, music, photo/video, performance... the list goes on. The creation and ‘legs’ of a film, is very similar to the creative diversity and collaboration to make a collection successful.

What can we expect from Abel Honor NY for the remainder of 2023? Any exciting projects or collaborations in the works?

Oh yes, we have about 5 more drops releasing from now until the end of the year!

Can you explain the significance of the name "Abel Honor" and how it embodies the essence of your brand?

Abel Honor came from the themes ‘Able’ and ‘Honor’. ‘Able’ references the idea of the term ‘willing and able’... it implies both the readiness and the capability to do or accomplish something. This concept is near and dear to me, and my team! We are ‘can do’ people. ‘Honor’ represents integrity, reputation, respect, loyalty, courage, and dignity. This are our guiding principals at AHNY!

What do you consider to be the core values and beliefs that shape the identity of Abel Honor NY as a fashion label?

Our tagline at AHNY is ‘refinement meets rebellion’. I think this stands true to our product and brand DNA. We use the term refinement because it goes hand in hand with the quality of craftsmanship, materials used, and attention to detail. And we use the term Rebellion because it offers the idea of challenging the norms, expression of individuality, and a catalyst for change!

As a designer and creative director, how do you foster a sense of empowerment and embodiment in those who wear Abel Honor New York?

I think we maintain empowerment and embodiment in our customers through our connection with authenticity and relatability. Our customers that relate to our concept are provided an opportunity for self-expression.

Looking towards the future, what are your long-term goals and aspirations for Abel Honor NY as a multi-disciplined brand?

Our goals at AHNY are to continue to cultivate our connections, product knowledge, and reach. Nothing makes us happier than gaining new members of the ‘abel gang’. We have so much love, knowledge, and inspiration to spread!

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Kate Wasserbach Moore
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