New York-based fashion designer Haoyue Zhao (Kelsie) works across runway production, commercial apparel development, and digital fashion. Her practice combines creative design, cultural research, and product development, spanning independent collections, collaborative runway projects, and large-scale retail programs.

While Zhao is known for her award-winning collection Escape from the Panopticon, her recent work has increasingly focused on expanding her role within the broader fashion industry through both runway collaborations and commercial product development.

Johnathan Hayden, Founder and Creative Director of his namesake label, is recognized for combining intricate print development, craftsmanship, and sustainability-focused design. Working closely with the studio throughout the development process, Zhao contributed to print development, embroidery execution, accessory design, garment detailing, and technical preparation for production. Many of the collection’s most visually distinctive elements required extensive development beyond the initial concept stage, including embroidery layouts, embellishment applications, and the translation of complex design ideas into production-ready garments and accessories.

Her work extended beyond design execution. By providing design ideas, preparing technical specifications, refining construction details, and coordinating development requirements, Zhao helped bridge the gap between creative direction and manufacturing, ensuring that highly detailed concepts could be successfully realized while maintaining the integrity of the original designs.

The collection was first presented in New York and later showcased at Texas Fashion Week in San Antonio on June 5, 2026, where it received positive attention for its craftsmanship, intricate detailing, and cohesive visual narrative. Zhao’s contributions played an important role in the realization of several key garments and accessories featured throughout the collection, demonstrating her ability to contribute meaningfully within a professional runway environment.

Alongside runway projects, Zhao has developed extensive experience in commercial fashion development. She currently works on athleisure and denim programs serving major North American retailers, participating in trend research, graphic and print development, factory communication, sample review, fitting processes, and collection development. Through this work, she has developed a strong understanding of contemporary American youth culture and the evolving preferences of junior and young women consumers.

Rather than viewing commercial fashion solely as product development, Zhao approaches it as an opportunity to study how cultural trends are translated into clothing. Her work frequently draws upon youth-oriented graphics, social media aesthetics, lifestyle trends, and changing consumer behavior, transforming these observations into products designed for large-scale retail markets. Her contributions support collections developed for retailers including Burlington, Ross, DD’s Discounts, and Charlotte Russe.

In addition to her work in apparel development, Zhao actively explores how digital tools and emerging technologies can enhance the fashion design process. She regularly incorporates software such as CLO 3D, Blender, and other digital visualization tools, along with AI-assisted creative workflows, into her design practice, using these technologies to support concept development, garment visualization, communication, and iterative design refinement. Rather than treating technology as a separate discipline, Zhao views it as an extension of the contemporary design process, helping bridge creativity, technical development, and production. 

Whether contributing to runway collections or commercial product development, Zhao approaches fashion as a discipline that combines creativity, craftsmanship, culture, and communication. Through professional collaborations, large-scale retail development, and ongoing creative exploration, she continues to expand her work across multiple areas of contemporary fashion.